PERCHED HIGH ON Penang Hill and setback from a road which has a gradient of 45 degrees, sits Edgecumbe. This two-storey bungalow built by Lim Cheng Teik c.1928 is currently derelict, the jungle slowly and relentlessly reclaiming it. Reputed to be haunted, it certainly is worlds away from the former glory of its heyday, when its residents would enjoy the view afforded from the beautiful terrace.

I first learned of its existence during a recent stay in Penang. Though I have taken the funicular up Penang Hill several times and explored its upper sights, I was unaware of the existence of the many bungalows which dot the Hill’s landscape—and of their history. Through discussions with members of my extended family—resident Penangites—I learned that they retained vivid memories of the bungalow, which they visited often as children.

Their access to Edgecumbe came about because their grandfather, Tan Heng Soon, a Penang comprador (See Penang Monthly May 2024 issue) had rented the bungalow for a period of 10 years from the owner. Tan, in his later years, did not enjoy good health, and the reviving cooler climes of Penang Hill was no doubt restorative for his health.

In this sense, Tan Heng Soon’s use of the bungalow neatly mirrored the reasons so many before him sought respite on the Hill. Penang settlement founder, Francis Light, c.1793 built a Hill dwelling, the purpose of which among other reasons was “for the good of health”. Jules Claine, French explorer, diplomat and photographer commented on the Hill dwellings when he visited Penang on his year-long tour of Malaysia (1889-1890), noting their importance to “Europeans… exhausted by the fevers of the lowlands”.

An advertisement for the Crag Hotel extolled its virtues as a sanatorium on Penang Hill.[1] It was described as the perfect health resort promising a crisp and bracing atmosphere with beautiful scenery and excellent walks (See Penang Monthly November 2022 issue).

Once mention of the Penang Hill bungalows commenced, it seemed to open the floodgates of memory for my relatives, and the lively discussions which ensued confirmed the importance of the times they had spent exploring Edgecumbe as youngsters. Equally interesting were their reminiscences of staying in a number of bungalows later in their teenage years. I listened as they excitedly listed South View, Fairmont, Lower Claremont and Woodside Bungalows. But… back to Edgecumbe!

By now, photos were being produced…and there was a sense of history emerging.

Three old black and white images conjure up occasions when Edgecumbe was their playground. In Photo 1 (cover), we see the bungalow in its heyday.

From its wonderful vantage point, this belvedere commands such a presence. Casement windows flung open allow cooling breezes to refresh the smiling inhabitants. Obviously a happy family time, I can just spy my late mother-in-law looking out from an upper window. She loved family to visit, and so they came often. Lovely striped blinds, both furled and unfurled, speak to the shady coolness that the bungalow provided against the tropical heat.

Photo 2 shows two little children caught in time gazing back at us. Just for a brief span, the cousins stand still, captured by the lens. She is holding her doll, his stance is pensive. A slight smile plays on both faces, and their gaze is direct and focused. Framed by the bungalow’s balustrade, the scene is restful and calm. Arranged along the top of the balustrade are potted plants, enhancing a tranquil scene.

Photo 3 both reveals the wonderful views from and the ambience of the bungalow, and captures a sense of family visitation and fun. As some adults including my late father-in-law enjoy the cooling views, my mother-in-law tries her hand at golf!

Our Return to Penang Hill…

Well, that conversation had by now convinced me… I had to see Edgecumbe!

With some help, I organised an intrepid trip up the hill by the jeep service (or what we Aussies would call a 4WD). As depicted in Photo 4, I was accompanied by family members including the two nieces who had not returned to the bungalow in over 50 years! The trip began at the Botanic Gardens, where we met James, our designated driver. Skillfully and unerringly, he navigated safely around each hairpin bend upwards. Given the steep gradient, the trick seemed to be to gun the engine forcefully around the bend, each one tighter than the one before! I must say I was delighted that somehow I’d scored the front passenger seat!

Upon arrival at the closest point to Edgecumbe, we disembarked and scrambled, more or less elegantly, onto the steeply sloping road. As one of my friends commented when she later saw my photos: “Crampons were needed for that road!” In fact, it was easier to walk backwards down the hill; when walking forwards, I had the distinct feeling of taking a head dive! Just think of the early trips up the Hill by chair and of those who carried them!

The braver in the group ventured off road and followed a leaf-littered pathway connected to the bungalow (Photo 5).

Each step forward took us tantalisingly closer as the way curved through tree canopy and creeper vines. The air felt cooler, and although I feared snakes more than ghosts, we pressed on until there was Edgecumbe rising above us… a silent sentinel. A substantial portion of the building was invisible, the rest having been overtaken by vegetation; the upper-storey and remains of the balustrade and terrace were still recognisable. Gaping holes where windows once were and casement frames detached and awry lent a rather mournful feeling to the whole scene, while traces of the original paint finish remained visible (Photo 6). Only the balustrade and terrace seem to have resisted deterioration and decay, and continue to mark out its territory. Where formally the bungalow sat high on the hill and surveyed all around, now it is being consumed from below.

The experience was bittersweet, seeing how such a once-majestic building has decayed. Soon, I fear the bungalow will be hidden from view by the voracious encroaching jungle, and all traces vanished. I took many photos to record the visit and the smiles on my relatives’ faces were a testament to the memories evoked on this day. Family recollections informed by photographs act as a catalyst for what was a most exciting visit. The trip provoked and crystallised happy family memories and broadened my knowledge of a part of Penang's history. A truly immersive experience!

FOOTNOTE

[1] Pinang Gazette and Straits Chronicle, 2 May, 1911.