THE HILLS IN the southern part of Penang Island may have a lower elevation than the peaks in the north, but they are just as fascinating. While the allure of Penang Hill and the peaks in the north lie in their biodiverse rainforests—not forgetting the allure of a refreshing bowl of ais kacang after a workout to Penang Hill’s peak—the experience in the south is pretty different. Instead of large swaths of rainforests, this area is dominated by orchards. Here, it is all about fruits—a diverse array of them. Records show that agriculture in these southern hills has existed since the 1850s, and though the kind of crops grown may have changed, these orchards are a present-day testament to the same agricultural legacy. While choosing a peak to explore in this area, we came across Bukit Papan.

Our hike begins on a cement road that goes slightly downhill beside the Orchard Ville apartment in Lengkok Kelicap, Bayan Lepas. Parking can be a challenge here, so carpooling is recommended. We follow the cement road as it descends briefly before climbing gently through durian orchards behind Orchard Ville. Since it is durian season, it’s no surprise that the trees are fitted with safety nets—an ingenious “trap” designed to catch falling durians and prevent them from splitting open as they land. Looking up, we spot a few durians “ensnared” in these nets, suspended right above our heads.

As we ascend the cement road, more fruit trees come into view—custard apples, papayas, mangosteens, rambutans, and even lesser-known ones like the Brazilian Longan and the Sentul. While all these look tempting, hikers should not pluck or damage these fruits; they are all grown by farmers here and form their source of income.

Something soon catches our attention—a vine with fleshy stems sprawling in all directions, bearing large, white flowers. Upon closer inspection, we realise these are the flowers of the dragon fruit. It is a cactus that typically blooms at night when moths and bats visit to pollinate the flowers. The ones before us are just an hour or two away from wilting, so we snap a few quick photos before continuing our journey.

Further along the cement road, we catch glimpses of Bayan Lepas, the airport and even Pulau Rimau through narrow gaps between towering apartment buildings at our forefront. After 30 minutes of hiking, we arrive at a Tua Pek Kong shrine beside the trickling headwaters of Sungai Bayan Lepas. Here, the sound of rushing water piques my curiosity, leading me to think that there might be a cascade nearby. We follow an orchard trail branching off to the right of the shrine, and true enough, we discover a delightful cascade—visible only from this direction. After capturing a few shots, we retrace our steps to the shrine and resume our hike along the cement track again.

The path continues through more orchards interspersed with patches of secondary growth. A sudden chirping sound prompts us to look up at a towering durian tree, where we spot a black bird with long, racket-like tail streamers—the Greater Racket-tailed Drongo. As we observe, its chirping unexpectedly shifts to a distinct call before it takes flight. Drongos are known for their diverse vocalisation and, more interestingly, for the ability to mimic the calls of other birds.

At this point, the cement trail transitions into an unpaved path. This is steeper and begins winding through denser sections of the secondary forest. A wooden signboard reading “BUKIT PAPAN” reassures us that we are headed in the right direction. It takes us about 50 minutes from the Tua Pek Kong shrine to reach the summit ridge, where, because the fruit trees are still relatively young, we are treated to splendid views of Pulau Jerejak and the Sultan Abdul Halim Muadzam Shah Bridge (also known as the Second Penang Bridge). As we continue along the ridge, we are pleasantly surprised by how well-maintained the area is—the grass is neatly trimmed and the fruit trees are lined in a row along the trail’s margins.

10 minutes later, a signboard welcomes us to the peak of Bukit Papan. Behind it is a panoramic view, the Teluk Kumbar hills in the foreground and Pulau Kendi in the distance. This sight brings back cherished memories of my 2021 visit to the isle (see “Pulau Kendi: A Glimpse of Old Penang’s Rich Waters”, Penang Monthly September 2021).

While we take in the views, we are greeted by the friendly orchard owner, Jaafar, better known to locals as Pan. He has made great effort to transform his hilltop orchard into a hiker-friendly destination. In addition to the summit signboard, he has set up a small rest spot and shed where hikers can relax. As we chat, we quickly realise his enthusiasm for his orchard, particularly the medicinal herbs growing in it. He points out to us the Kemunting (Rhodomyrtus tomentosa), Senduduk (Melastoma malabathricum) and Tongkat Ali (Eurycoma longifolia) growing here.

It is petai (Parkia speciosa) season, and Pan has a surprise for us. He brings us to see his petai trees, giving us a quick demonstration of how to harvest the pods with a long harvesting pole. Though it looked easy, it was trickier than expected. After several attempts, we successfully pluck a cluster of pods, and he generously gifts it to us.

After a “we-fie” with Pan, it is time to head back. Bukit Papan truly embodies the essence of a delightful hike—fruity treasures, melodious birdsong and a kindhearted orchard owner eager to share the bounty of his farm and his vast knowledge and enthusiasm for nature.

Hike at a Glance

Length: 1.5 hours (to the peak)

Difficulty: Moderate

Interest Level: High

Signposting: Limited. Best to turn on a smartphone GPS application while on the trek.

Likelihood of getting lost: Low

Number of hikers: Many