DO YOU REMEMBER your first taste of tosai? It is an entire experience. A sleepy daybreak sojourn into a nondescript kedai under an ageing tree. Uncle offers you a toasty, paper-like piece that overflows from a stainless steel tray with two thick coconut chutneys of white and brown hues, and a liquid-gold dhal or lentil sambar stew as a gentle sidekick to balance the other textures. Sometimes, if you are lucky, you get the green mint chutney. You sink your...
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