**Although the Penang public is familiar with the spelling of "Nyonya", for the purpose of standardisation and to reflect the author's intent, "Nonya" is spelled without the additional "y" in this article.I RECALL THE choon piah I ate at the extant Tanjong Club to have an unexpected taste; it was flavoured with ngoh hiang hoon, or five spice powder, instead of the usual cinnamon and clove like the ones typically served at old Hainanese restaurants.How and when was the spice...
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is an engineering and food consultant. He conducts cooking classes, does research on Nonya and heritage cuisine, and hosts the occasional supper club. He has published two award-winning books: Penang Heritage Food – Yesterday’s Recipes for Today’s Cook and Nonya Heritage Kitchen – Origins, Utensils and Recipes.